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HomeArticlesCorset patterns1880s corset patterns1882 T.S. Gilbert Corset Patent #267514

1882 T.S. Gilbert Corset Patent #267514

icon-smLuthien recreates this 1882 overbust, hourglass corset, designed to 'conform to the shape of the person more perfectly' than earlier Victorian corsets.

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illustrious_cre 09.02.2013 02:04  
Yes No   Good job! It would be interesting to see what a straight off flat draft to your measurements of this pattern would look like, although that curved hook shape might be tricky. Looking forward to seeing the next installment.  
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jerwin 09.02.2013 06:25  
Yes No   The patent is assigned to Thomson Langdon and Co, of New York, who marketed Thomson's Glove Fitting Corsets. Interestingly, this firm, according to Valerie Steele's Corset: a Cultural History, is associated with tightlacing, having received a favorable mention in corset crinoline&hl=en&sa=X&ei=ZuoVUZCsCZC00AH myoHwCQ&ved=0CDgQ6AEwAQ#v=snippet&q=thomson&f=false  
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urbanseamstress 09.02.2013 07:41  
Yes No   Interesting article! I'm always very happy to read about these patents being made up -- I think they're excellent material for thinking and learning about seaming and shaping, even though some are obviously more successful in that respect than others.

However, your reasoning that "[...] many home corset-makers would have been intimidated by looking at a vertically seamed pattern with no gores at all" seems strange to me. True, "[...] the corsets that I have seen constructed as one rectangle with gores have all been rather crude and homemade", but that doesn't automatically mean that all home-made corsets were crude rectangles with gores. Home sewing magazines such as La Mode Illustrée / Harper's Bazaar / De Gracieuse had been around since the 1860s with far more complicated corset patterns than the average crude rectangle. Admittedly, these magazines were probably not available to the lowest classes, but I think in general sewing skills were quite a bit beyond what they are today.
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cathyhay 09.02.2013 14:29  
Yes No   I'd agree with urbanseamstress above, and offer another possibility too. Maybe its simplicity wasn't just for ease of use, but also for speed - could this, in fact, have been meant for potential mass production?

However, it's also interesting that you say the corsets you've seen with this type of pattern tend to be crude, Luthien, so perhaps you're right.
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sparklewren 09.02.2013 21:49  
Yes No   Ooh, I've really enjoyed playing with this pattern before and loving your take on it. Can't wait to see the final corset, keep up the good work :-D  
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Cathy Hay British costume artist Cathy Hay is the creator and publisher of both Foundations Revealed and the award-winning Your Wardrobe Unlock'd, which were borne out of a grand wish to help...

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