My initial inspiration was that I wanted to make an incredibly simple version of this patent, with minimal decoration, so that I had a staple "garter" that I could wear under modern and 50s dresses. I had previously seen a photo of a plain black silk Edwardian corset, held in Kent State University's collection, and fell in love with how striking, yet simple, it was - definitely a sign of well-designed lingerie, if someone sees it a century later and wants it for their own collection! The Kent state corset was many panels, like the Hume pattent, and I thought it would be a great inspiration point.
The night before I cut out the fabric, though, I was cruising Instagram (as ya do before bed!) and I saw another corset maker posting a sheer and silk corset. I remembered how I love sheer corsets, and that I also just so happened to have black sheer corsetry mesh that I'd picked up recently and kept meaning to try! I've long admired the sheer black corset body that Mr Pearl created for Dita Von Teese, and this project suddenly seemed like a great way to incororate the lustre of the satin coutil with the risque nature of the sheer fabric! One of my main corsetry interests is taking historical patterns/patents/inspirations and making them in modern materials and to fit a modern aesthetic. Adding the sheer panels added even more to this goal!
I drafted the patent by drawing out the pattern onto paper with the underbust, waist, and hip lines marked, and drawing shapes that resembled the patent pattern pieces. My mock-up fit extremely well on the first go, with the only changes being to the height of the corset under the bust and over the butt. I used a tapered busk, with two spring steel pieces on each side for extra support. I used grosgrain ribbon for a waist tape, did a boning channel of 1/4" spiral steel on the edges of each satin coutil panel, and finished the raw edges inside with twill tape. The edge is machine finished with dupioni silk bias tape. I didn't have any inch-wide hardware with black garter tabs, so I added four 3/4" elastic loops to add detachable garters to the corset.
Overall, I'm extremely pleased with how this turned out. Although I'd planned it as a foundation garment, it works wonderfully as its own fashion piece for more risqué events (especially paired with cage panties like in my photo!)! I love the S-curve shape that it gives me, as you can see from the side photo. I received many compliments on this outfit at the event I wore it to, but the one that pleases me the most was when a woman said that she loved how "modern" the corset was. A century later, the Hume patent has still got it!