- Written by Marion McNealy
Last month we drafted the pattern for this unusual design. This month, the step by step construction process, including how to sew some very tricky seams! Suitable for beginners.
Thank you for the in-depth look at the construction; the photos really cleared up some things for me! Do you have any tips for sewing the twill tape and boning channels over curved seams? I can imagine that I would get wrinkles all over the place if I tried!
Hi Enken, not sure if this helps any but I tacking stitich the tape or boning tube to the corset using small stitches which are close together, one row on each side just inside where I intend to machine stitch. I haven't got any wrinkles yet - well not on the corset ;-)
Probably the biggest tip I can give is to not pin in down before sewing, but to guide it with your fingers. Yes, it will take a bit longer, but you'll have more control over the finished product.
For the twill tape, I sewed the side that was on the inside of the curve first, then stretched the tape to follow the curve on the outside when I stitched it. Twill tape doesn't have stretch in the length, but it does have a bit of flex in the width.
For the boning channels, I just put pins in at the top, middle and end, just to keep the placement roughly where it should. Then as I sewed the corset, I would not sew it flat. If you see the picture where I'm sewing the casings over the bust curves... As I stitch, I'm pushing the boning casing into the curve of the fabric and curving the fabric into the shape I want. Its sort of like making a fabric sculpture instead of a flat garment. You're shaping the corset as you sew.