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Step-by-Step Worksheets

Constructing a Two Layer Corset (One Layer Coutil/One Layer Lining Fabric) With Waist Tape

  1. Cut two of each pattern piece out of lining fabric.
  2. Cut two of each pattern piece, facings and modesty panel (if required) out of coutil.
  3. Label (in the seam allowance) and mark the waistline on each piece and press.
  4. Mark, on the coutil layer, all the bone casings that are not placed on a seam line.  For the back panel pieces, draw a line down the centre of the gap between the bone casings (where the eyelets will go).
  5. Attach the busk to the front panels - using the front facings.  Remember to do the hook side first!
  6. Tacking stitch coutil panel pieces together using the labels marked previously in step 3.
  7. Tacking stitch lining panel pieces together using the labels in the seam allowance.  Do not join the lining to the coutil at the back panel yet!
  8. Check you have stitched pieces together correctly (by wrapping around a tailor’s dummy).
  9. Machine stitch coutil pieces together.
  10. Machine stitch lining pieces together.
  11. Check fit and make any adjustments necessary.
  12. Press seams flat and then press to one side (remember to press the seams on the left side of the corset in the opposite direction to the right).
  13. Trim seam allowance to 8mm.
  14. Tacking stitch waist tape to the coutil layer, lining up the tape with the waistline markings.
  15. Machine stitch waist tape.
  16. Tacking stitch bone casing tape over the seam allowances.  Do this by lining up the tape with the seam stitching.
  17. Tacking stitch bone casing tape to the markings on the coutil pieces.
  18. Machine stitch the bone casing tape.  For the tape placed over seam allowances:  stitch the side closest to the seam first.
  19. If you want to floss the bone casings, now is the time to floss the bottom of each one.
  20. Cut and fit the bones.
  21. Floss the top of bone casings.
  22. Stitch back panel pieces together – remember to include your back facings!
  23. Stitch a line across the top and bottom of each corset piece.  The distance of the stitch line from the edge of the corset should be the width of the binding you will be using to finish the corset.
  24. Apply the binding to the bottom edge of each corset piece.
  25. Apply the binding to the top edge of each corset piece.  If you are going to use a draw cord for additional bust support, hand stitch the cord to the edge of the back panel after you have attached the binding to the front of the corset, but before you fold the binding over to stitch it to the back.  Remember to leave the binding open at the front to allow the cord through!
  26. Attach the eyelets, using the line drawn previously between the boning channels to centre your eyelets and make sure the distance between each one is equal.
  27. Add laces.
  28. Pour glass of wine and take a moment to look over and appreciate what you have just created.  Remember to take photos!

 


 

Constructing a Two Layer Corset (One Layer Coutil/One Layer Lining Fabric) Without Waist Tape

  1. Cut two of each pattern piece out of lining fabric.
  2. Cut two of each pattern piece, facings and modesty panel (if required) out of coutil.
  3. Label (in the seam allowance) and mark the waistline on each piece and press.
  4. Mark, on the coutil layer, all the bone casings that are not placed on a seam line.  For the back panel pieces, draw a line down the centre of the gap between the bone casings (where the eyelets will go).
  5. Attach the busk to the front panels - using the front facings.  Remember to do the hook side first!
  6. Tacking stitch coutil panel pieces together using the labels marked previously in step 3.
  7. Tacking stitch lining panel pieces together using the labels in the seam allowance.  Do not join the lining to the coutil at the back panel yet!
  8. Check you have stitched pieces together correctly (by wrapping around a tailor’s dummy).
  9. Machine stitch coutil pieces together.
  10. Machine stitch lining pieces together.
  11. Check fit and make any adjustments necessary.
  12. Press seams flat and then press to one side (remember to press the seams on the left side of the corset in the opposite direction to the right).
  13. Trim seam allowance to 8mm.
  14. Tacking stitch bone casing tape over the seam allowances.  Do this by lining up the tape with the seam stitching.
  15. Tacking stitch bone casing tape to the markings on the coutil pieces.
  16. Machine stitch the bone casing tape.  For the tape placed over seam allowances:  stitch the side closest to the seam first.
  17. If you want to floss the bone casings, now is the time to floss the bottom of each one.
  18. Cut and fit the bones.
  19. Floss the top of bone casings.
  20. Stitch back panel pieces together – remember to include your back facings!
  21. Stitch a line across the top and bottom of each corset piece.  The distance of the stitch line from the edge of the corset should be the width of the binding you will be using to finish the corset.
  22. Apply the binding to the bottom edge of each corset piece.
  23. Apply the binding to the top edge of each corset piece.  If you are going to use a draw cord for additional bust support, hand stitch the cord to the edge of the back panel after you have attached the binding to the front of the corset, but before you fold the binding over to stitch it to the back.  Remember to leave the binding open at the front to allow the cord through!
  24. Attach the eyelets, using the line drawn previously between the boning channels to centre your eyelets and make sure the distance between each one is equal.
  25. Add laces.
  26. Pour glass of wine and take a moment to look over and appreciate what you have just created.  Remember to take photos!

Gravatar
sewlolita 02.04.2011 10:03  
Yes No   this is a really handy 'print, and tick off steps' guide :D ... much less time spent wondering what it was that I was meant to do next  
 
Tasha 16.10.2012 14:16  
Yes No   This was *just* what I needed just *when* I needed it. Thank you so much for this site and this hyper-useful list of steps.  
 
beata_sievi 11.05.2014 17:29  
Yes No   Dear Laura

I really like this systematic approach, but I wonder if there isn't one step missing. Till the step 13 it is clear that you work on coutil and on lining separatly. How does this to leyers come together before binding (step 21).Is it in the step 20? But this would mean that you also have to stich lining and front facing togehter ? yet this is difficult, when the corset has a small size and when bones are already inside...I would be glad to have your comment as to be sure that I understad your method .With kind regards Beata
 
 
Gravatar
cathyhay 11.06.2014 09:46  
Yes No   Hi Beata, when the busk is inserted (see http://foundationsrevealed.com/index-of-articles/free/beginner/135-basic-flexible-busk-insertion), you'll be putting the front lining and coutil pieces together as part of that process. Then, as you assemble all the pieces, you'll end up with the two layers joined in one piece because the busk is where they're attached. Does that make sense?  
 
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