Foundations Revealed

Jenni alters the antique "Hearts" corset pattern to emulate the archetypal “Edwardian” posture on a modern body, and weighs up the effect on comfort.

Last month a very decisive 73% of you wanted to see the pattern re-worked twice for the model.  This month, we will focus on the first version, as it came off the pattern block.

Re-creating a real Edwardian corset pattern for a modern body, using antique drafting books to find elusive clues.

“Signed by me this 22nd May, 1906. DANIEL KOPS.”

Almost exactly one hundred and four years later, this unusual and sophisticated corset design is still of interest. Sinuous pieces curl around the body in a way we've never seen before, forming charming heart shapes at the centre front and over the hips.

Interpreting the Edwardian patent into a contemporary corset is a wonderful challenge that I am thrilled to share with you!

In this first article we look at the patent and re-create the pattern by draping. In the second article, we'll use a different method (drafting), and in the third we'll compare and contrast toiles from each pattern.

Corsetmaking presents a number of challenges for us to tackle with innovation, study and hard work. We soon discover that there are no one-size-fits-all solutions.

Different structures require different raw materials and processes, and opinions differ on which materials produce the best results.

Jenni conducts a unique experiment to compare the effects of four different types of steel in her bespoke corsets.