Foundations Revealed

Jennifer guides us through the process of making a pair of 1922 circular open drawers, or tap pants, as some people call them, from period instructions.

Jennifer guides us through drafting, fitting and decorating a vintage Edwardian-style princess slip; a useful item of underwear in any lady's trousseau!

Mark discusses the drafting, fitting and creation of this classic - but notoriously complicated - non-wired bra which gives excellent bust support and shape.

The first in a series of articles on bra patterning and making. Before we get out the fabric, there's a big obstacle to tackle: what size bra do you want?

Silhouette is important for vintage as well as historical clothing: make an authentic pointy bra that Jane Russell or Marilyn Monroe would have been proud of.

Continuing discussion on the home sewer's approach to leather corsetmaking, one part professional technique, one part broke college student ingenuity.

The history and construction of lower hose: netherstocks, stockings, and boot-hose. Then we'll drape, pattern and sew our own with a combination of machine and handstitching.

Part 2 of our bra pattern drafting and making series: drafting the blocks for the cups, cradle and wings of a simple underwired “Darted Cup” Bra. 

Mark shares with us the secrets of working with stretchy powernet, and shows how to make a vintage corselette of the 1950s or 60s.

Wendy puts her earlier research on transitional Regency stays into practice and reproduces a set of stays for herself, walking us through the fitting stages.

A study of three padded bustles in the Kentucky Historical Society Collection, showing how thrifty women stayed fashionable on a budget.

Part 3 of our bra pattern drafting/making series. You have taken measurements and drafted a pattern - now it's time to break out the sewing kit!

Dresses of the 1770s-80s were worn over a “bum” or “rump,” but there is little extant evidence as to what shape and proportion these rumps took.

Mark takes the basic corselet further by adding shaping or control panels to it. He also shows how to adapt the corselet blocks to make other foundation garments.

In the Napoleonic period, what was once taboo came out from hiding, along with the natural female form. Suddenly, it became necessary to keep the world from glimpsing too much.

Trying to date a particular corset, track changes in lingerie fashion down to a few years, or just looking for new inspiration? Plenty here to keep you busy...

Mark shows you how to adapt the basic "darted cup" bra pattern into three further styles, including a strapless bra shape.

In this article on bra design we will look at more cup shaping options, push up bras, and sling bras, and try to solve the problem of "east westing". 

Part 2 of Push Up and Sling Bras series. You've drafted the cups in part 1, now we'll draft the bra wing with gated back fastening, and sew the push up bra.

An open pair of cotton drawers in the style of the 1840's  (but dated late 1850s to 1860s), with delicate whitework embroidery, sewn on a chain stitch machine.