How to make a corset - Foundations Revealed

Two questions and a short story on the Letters page this month:

Zeina inquires about how to make a set of the 1660 watered silk stays from the V&A. Bernicia wonders about alternative lacing and where to find colored eyelets (hint: its in the most unexpected place!) A short story from 1913, in which the lady's undergarments play a starring role (it's a nice clean story, nothing risque actually happens!)

 

Sandra's stunning work translating teacup designs into corsetry is magnificently inspiring. She was kind enough to answer our questions and share her plans for the future.

Sunny concludes her exhaustive study of six Belle Époque petticoats by comparing the remaining construction details and techniques to the instructions in various Belle Époque sewing manuals.

The result is enlightening (and freeing) if you get hung up on trying to make all the details “right”. You’ll be able to see just how varied the methods were for basic things (like constructing a ruffle or inserting a placket) and be able to relax and sew your petticoat with confidence.

Many makers find inserting gores and gussets a little tricky when it comes to stitching them into a corset.

I'll share with you two easy step-by-step techniques that will insert gores and gussets neatly, producing a nice crisp V shape at the bottom.

 

A skeleton corset has no fabric between the boning channels, just a few horizontal tapes to hold the bone casings together.

Most examples are late 19th to early 20th century, but they can be found mid-century too.

 Amanda Lerum Faulkner shares photos, details and a pattern for an 1869 American skeleton corset in her collection. Next month she'll share a step-by-step tutorial to reproduce its unique busk.