How to make a corset - Foundations Revealed

Sandra Stuart shares each step in the construction of this real Victorian corset patent, finding it an illuminating experience with stunning results!

Sandra begins constructing her intricate 1878 corset by tea-dying the fabric, then carefully cording and embroidering the pieces to match a favourite teacup.

Hallie Larkin provides the pattern and sizing instructions, and walks us through period-accurate construction and replication of these authentic stays.

Sandra Stuart walks you through enlarging a small diagram to the correct size for the creation of a working pattern, using an 1878 original and Photoshop.

Sandra Stuart tackles re-creating a gusseted and gored corset using an 1878 patent diagram, from pattern enlargement to construction and fitting. 

Knowing how stays were really made allows us to imitate those techniques and produce an accurate garment. We study the genuine article in detail.

The underwear situation in the Natural Form Era was.... complicated!  Ladies had an outfit for every situation and time of day, and underwear to go with it. To further add confusion, the "Dress Reform" movement was at its height: its main focus was on changing corsets and what was worn underneath them, all in the name of health. 

So what did women wear under their dresses?  It all depends on a variety of factors.  I'll walk you through all the different layer options starting from the skin out, with variations in necklines and politics. Next month I'll complete the layers and show you how to combine them. Bonus DPP article from YWU

Some underwear is easy to date by the cut or the decoration, other items are almost timeless. 

This month I share with you a knitted silk undervest with a crocheted yoke that could date anywhere from 1880 to 1910. The eBay seller I purchased it from described it as a "vintage tank top", but ladies in the Victorian and Edwardian age would have recognized it as a vest or an undervest.

Two questions and an embroidery library on the Letters page this month.

Danielle inquires about fitting stays Sherry shares an embroidery library Patricia asks about articles for the DPP

 

Marion shares a linen chemise circa 1879 from her collection.The chemise is simple in construction with delicate hand embroidered eyelet work around the neck, minute white threadwork buttons, and an eye-opening combination of machine sewing and delicate hand stitching.

If you're looking to get a head start on your Natural Form Era undies, you can't miss this!