Foundations Revealed

In the last two months I talked about the different decorative techniques used to trim Belle Époque petticoats (here and here); now I will discuss the different factors that combine to create the shape of the skirt, and the petticoats that support it. Patterns of the six petticoats are included this month.

There are many factors that affect the shape of the skirt, and I will be discussing all of these in this article, particularly as they relate to the six 1890-1910 petticoats described here. Next month I will be talking about the basic sewing techniques (plackets, seam finishes, etc.) that were used in these six petticoats.

I can't believe that it's December already and that the Holiday season is almost upon us!

There are two questions this month. One on patterning/fitting a corset for a figure where the waist is almost as big as the hips. The other is on horizontal boning channels in 18th century corsets.

We also share a letter we received from a reader were she shares what she likes and what she'd like to see more of. Read it and see if you agree!

Do you have an antique corset in your collection that you'd like to see featured on FR? Click to read more about writing for us.

After the October issue, in which the article Pattern Challenge- Thomson Glove-fitting Corset about Patent 611,116 issued to T.S. Gilbert was published, David in the UK wrote to me asking:

"Are you certain that this patent is for a Thomson Glove-fitting Corset?

This led me to look more closely at the patent and realize that he was right! So I did a little (ok, a lot) more research into T.S Gilbert, the owner of patent 611,116.

I'll share what I found about him, along with my method of patterning this corset, and next month I'll show you the finished piece.

On this page you can ask questions about any aspect of corsetmaking or historical underwear, however basic, advanced, general or technical, and receive answers both from our contributors and from other readers. We'd also love to publish your own tips, techniques and stories.

This month Suzannah asks about corset mannequins, Laurie inquires about the different site look and Natalie wonders how adaptable the corset drafting tutorial could be for other styles of corset.

How to make your own personalised custom Victorian corset pattern - a tutorial suitable for beginners!

One of the most frustrating challenges in corsetmaking is to get the darn thing to fit properly. Corsets are such unforgiving, tightly fitted garments that a good one must have a perfect fit; there's no room for error.

After getting frustrated with commerical patterns, you're probably starting to wonder how to draft (draw out) your own patterns from a list of measurements. Here's how, in a step-by-step format specially designed for complete beginners.

I've devised these instructions for you based on corset designs of the late 1870s. You'll still need a mock-up to check before cutting the expensive fabric, but you will be very surprised how well it fits...

Thank you very much for passing the news on to our friends - that shows a great spirit of generosity,and that's what we need if we're going to spread the spirit of craftsmanship worldwide. There's enough for everyone, so why not share?

As our thank you to you, here's the special bonus chapter as promised.

Download The Corsetmaking Revolution: The Next Step here(Suitable both for Mac and PC users)

Use it, enjoy it, and feel free to ask questions by contacting us at info@harmanhay.com!

The free tutorial that enables every corsetmaker to create the most unique, beautifully fitting corsets you’ve ever hand-crafted. Download the pdf here, use it, enjoy it, adapt it for your own ends, and tell us what you think in the comments.And there's more: get your free bonus chapter on adding complexities like bust gussets, hip gores and corded panels to your designs when you tell your friends!

Jill Salen, author of Corsets: Historical Patterns & Techniques, shares her technique for making corset patterns from the original antique corsets that you can find in museums.

With these tools, the whole of the history of corsets opens up to you, and you'll no longer be restricted to the commercially available patterns that everyone else is using. Jill gives you advice about getting an appointment, what to take with you and how to begin making a pattern, taking you right through to mocking it up and considering how to make it for real.

Come with us into the exciting world of antique corsets, where there are so many wonderful, unique patterns and ideas, you'll want another lifetime to make them all!