- Written by Marianne Faulkner
Simple underbust corsets are a staple for corset wearers and makers. Here are the patternmaking tools and techniques to get you started right. (Updated 6/21/12 with clarified drafting instructions)
I found this a bit difficult to understand. Quite often it tells you to mark a measurement, but it doesn't say on which line (e.g "Mark this width, 6.5”, from your CF and CB lines." That's great, but on which line? I guessed the waist line but it didn't say for sure, or "After that I'm going to mark the ends of my side seam, 5” up and down from the waistline." which doesn't say how far across... at the side, presumably, but is that exactly half way along the waist line or what?)
The author has some lovely work pictured so I'm sure it's a great method, but unfortunately I found it a bit hard to follow, which is a shame as I was looking forward to trying it out.
I've sat down and attempted this 3 times now and maybe I am missing something but I really couldn't get to grips with it. Did anyone else have this problem, or am I just missing something obvious?
I'm glad you liked the article.
I've submitted an update to the editors here at FR which may help clear up your questions. I've numbered the steps, clarified some of my phrasing, and created an annotated digital version of the draft (with step by step screenshots), so check back later. Hope that helps!
Infortunately, I too am unable to understand and follow these instructions, and it's not for lack of trying and trying again. I can't wait for the update because your article is the only one on this site to address thouroughly pattern drafting for an underbust corset, a stapple in corset making.
This is about a million times better with the diagrams. I'm very much a visual person & numbers are not my strong point (I have dyscalculia) so previously they got a bit lost in the text & confused me too much. Now I understand what I'd need to do & where which is great!
I'll have a go following this as is, since its a great place to start, but as I have a curve to my spine (I look pretty S-curve without a corset) & some asymmetry to my ribs and hips, I'll probably have another go once I've done the basics to factor in quarterly measurements. Also I'll probably need to work out how to get the waist shape I'm after. I have a very short waist (no more than an inch between bottom of floating ribs & top of pelvis) & a natural hipspring of 12" so the angles for me will probably need to be much more extreme to get the hourlass shape. Though I'm fond of the wasp waist with a more conical rib shaping so will have to play with how to shape the ribs to visually extend the waistline too! Fun! :)
I'm working on drafting a pattern from this now for the second corset I've ever made, so this might be kind of a beginner question, but can you explain the "back gap"? Why are you taking an inch out? I'm a little confused because it doesn't seem to be replaced anywhere, and the corset already has a 2" reduction for my desired waist...is it to ensure that there IS a gap in the back when the corset is laced? Thank you for your help. :)