FIG 1 original outline simpleCaroline tries different ways of laying and cutting her Symington pattern to create a wrinkle free corset - the holy grail for many corsetieres.

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sara
Awesome article on a tricky subject.
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carolinewoollin
Thanks Sara!
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guanita
Thank you for sharing it with us! Very good article!
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aramintab
Thank you. I recently experimented on behalf of a customer, her third toile. The modern corset were copying is quite slanted on the side panels so I was keen to read up on the theory/science of grainlines in corsets.
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zimtmaedchen
Brilliant article, thank you, Caroline!
This may be a stupid question, but do the grainlines in your new Elsa pattern reflect what you wrote in the article, or will I have to modify them accordingly? Thanks!

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carolinewoollin
Hi - yes they do!
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zimtmaedchen
Thanks, Caroline!
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carolien
Hi Caroline,

Thank you for your wonderful article, very enlightning. This shows that we clearly have a lot to learn still from the past :)

One thing was not completely clear to me from your article. What is the difference between corset 1(control) en corset 2? I didn't really understand your description of how you determined the grain lines there and how it was different from pattern 1, and I couldn't see the difference really in the pictures.


p.s. On my pc photo/figure 6 was stretched in the width, it's okay when you click it though.

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carolinewoollin
Hi Carolien, so, firstly sorry if it wasn't clear! Corset 1 = panel angles and sg exactly as the Symington sketch so they are angled increasingly from cf to middle and then back to vertical at the cb. The waistline is not horizontal on the panels as they are laid out on the page - it is as fig 4. Corset 2 = panels more vertical/sg exactly perpendicular to a horizontal waistline. Corset 3 = wl drawn on the panels as they are laid out on the page and sg drawn perpendicular. This is to demonstrate how the sg is shifted when the corset is made up - the actual wl is not horizontal like this - it actually causes the indicated sg to 'tilt' towards the cf so the sg becomes negatively angled. This created the worst wrinkling and is a lesson to check wl's on historical patterns carefully and not make assumptions based on how they are laid out on the page! In summary - the difference between corset 1 and 2 is that 1 has it's sg at 90 degress to the wl and corset 2 has it's sg at varying angles.
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carolinewoollin
Eeeek sorry - wrong way round - corset 1 has varying angles, and corset 2 has all panels at 90 degrees to the wl.
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