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squarepicFanlaced corsets look impressive, but they're not as complex as they seem. Jema walks us through the process in her step-by-step guide.

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catherine
Thank you for a clear and interesting article!
Could I please ask what length of ribbon you used?

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Jema
When I started lacing each side was 5m (so 10m in all) and I trimmed down about 1/2m when finished..... it’s definitely always better to start with too much ribbon! Nothing more frustrating than running out!!!
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jema
Hello Catherine, When I started lacing each side was 5m (so 10m in all) and I trimmed down about 1/2m when finished..... it’s definitely always better to start with too much ribbon! Nothing more frustrating than running out!!!
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ivyrose
Thank you for this article. I now have a gazillion questions!
- is there a relationship between the number of eyelets and the number of holes in the sliders?
- if you want more (or less) eyelets, how do you work out the sequence of up/down/in/out/weave over/under?!?!
- I think I understand that the lacing slides through the sliders and therefore evens out so there's no big loopies anywhere, but if you use the "sewn on triangle puller", how does it account for the fact that the top and the bottom laces need to travel farther to do the same thing, meaning that (I think) there would be uneven pull, or varied tension on the laces? (I don't know if I explained that well)
- is there a difference whether there is an equal number of eyelets above and below the puller/belt, or if it is placed at an angle in relation to the eyelets? Like, if you were to put a lacing section at the top of the corset, but the belt was nearer the waist, all the laces would be pulling "down" instead of "across"?

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jema
Hiya,
Yes there is a relationship between the holes and hardware ;) to a certain extent.... but you can also use the hardware eyelets to go through more than once.... but that is quite an advanced technique.... I’d strongly recommend getting the worked out example down perfectly before enjoying inventing your own!

To work out the number of eyelets compared to holes in hardware, I start by sketching my desired holes out on a piece of paper, and trace where the ribbons will go, following the usual system (there is a pattern to it if you watch the sped up video closely ;)) knowing which to weave under and over so it pulls smoothly is very much a matter of experimentation , be prepared to re-do your pattern a couple of times till it runs nicely...
We will be covering the solid pull type in a later article next year, but mainly it's just a matter of laying out your ribbons from one side to the next and carefully pinning in place to get the correct lengths...

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jema
obviously if you were making hundreds of corsets in a factory, you would then measure each length for a specific corsets shape and pattern/size ;)

as far as I've found while experimenting, you could quite happily fanlace just the top of a corset or add 3 different "groups" of lacing...with 3 different pulls... they all give different effects depending on your design... the pics in the link to the spirella ones in the article should give you lots of images of different styles to play with ;) it really is about experimenting though! get a pair of sliders and try it out on a toiles lacing panel.... you don't have to use all the eyelets... once you feel confident with this design, just try different combinations to get the effect you want! like most things in sewing there is no "One Correct Way" just personal choice and easier/harder ways!!!

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jema
So long as your lacing gap is even when you set all the fanlace up, it should just evenly pull to make that gap evenly smaller - the laces will either adjust with the slider or stay firm at all their different lengths in the fan and just travel around the body but in the same proportion....
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aramintab
Am I going to have difficulty trying to adjust fan lacing if I'm fitting it on my own for the first time or do I need to get a friend over?
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