Loving this course, Laura! I'm working on this part now and I came across two questions. First: the straight edge of piece 16 does have an angle to it at the waist. When eliminating the 16mm from that side, do you remove it through a line parallel to the grainline or do you calculate the median between the middle edge, top edge, and bottom edge (so the average for all three points is 16mm?) Question two is in regards to the hip width. Are we supposed to measure and calculate the new lines (like what was done for the bust and waist) or do we mark it only? In attempting to measure the hips, I ran into an issue of which line to follow for end of the measurement. I'm a sz 12 and the hip curve line often ends before my hip line. Do I estimate the end by following the hip curve and extending it? Thanks for the lovely tutorial!!!
Hello Ammullins, On my copy of the pattern the straight line on panel 16 runs exactly parallel to the grain so I would recommend straightening this line out (remember to keep an eye on how this affects the corsets overall measurements). A straight line is important here because in the next stages we will be cutting the panel on a fold in the fabric.
For the hips we are checking that the width of the panels is correct and calculating and marking any reductions/increases by drawing a new line. Can you explain what you mean by the hip curve line ends before your hip line? Do you mean the panel isn't long enough? In which case I would double check your measurements and if they are correct I would extend each panel by the same amount.
The easiest way to do this is to extend the pattern line down to the bottom edge of a larger size, but be sure to do this for all panels. Start with panel 14 and extend the bottom until you can incorporate your hipline and have a minimum of 15mm between your hip line and the bottom of the panel. Make a note of the size that your new bottom edge corresponds to and then extend the other panels down to the the same size. If I have misunderstood your problem, let me know and we will figure it out http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/media/jxtended/img/smilies/default/Wink.png
I'm using size 24 as the basis for my pattern, but using your instructions for finding the bustline puts the line above the top of the pattern for several of the pieces. The measurement I got was 197mm from the waistline. The line is also well above the markings for attaching the gusset. Do you have any suggestions?
Is there a version of the article that converts to inches? Otherwise I'll have to do it and find a way to put into the article. Here in the US a centimeter is a little critter with a whole lot of legs and a nasty bite.
My measurements for hip and bust are 10, but after the 75mm waist reduction, my waist is just below a size 6. I've checked it lots of times to see if I've made a mistake. (Maybe for a skinny girl I have an unusually defined waist?) The waist for size 10 is 25"/63.5cm, my waist after 75mm reduction is 54.5cm, so the difference is 9cm/90mm! Size 6 waist is 23"/58.4cm. Does anyone know if I should just redraw the lines between size 10 hip and bust and size 6 waist? Or do I go up 3 sizes (25mm each size) and pick size 16? I'm a bit confused sorry
I get it now. I only did reduction on my waist nothing else, because I'm skinny. But after having done the reduction on bust and waist I'm smaller than a 6 all over. With 75mm waist reduction, my waist is still 372mm smaller than size 6 waist. I'm too small :(. So I think I'll stick to redrawing the lines between size 10 (my bust and hip measurements without the reduction) and size 6 and not have reduction anywhere else apart from the waist.